SOUNDSTAGE! ON HIFIAsk Wes Archives

September 1 to September 17, 2000

 

September 17, 2000

Subject: Speakers and room size

I am thinking of buying a pair of Sonus Faber Signum loudspeakers, whose sound I find very attractive. I listen to acoustic music (classical and jazz).

The problem is: my listening room is 40 square meters, and I'm afraid it is a bit too large for the little Signums (even I don't like the music very loud) .

If this is your opinion too, please tell me if the Sonus Faber Concerto or Electa Amator II would be adequate.

And what about B&W Nautilus 805, which is also in my short list too ? Or must I go to a floorstander such as the ProAc Studio 125 ?

Yours Sincerely,

Carlos Silva

Dear Carlos:

I think a lot of blather is talked about speaker size and room size correlation. I suspect that people think a small speaker fits better in a small room and vice versa just because the proportions seem to make visual sense. My friend Ruben listens to ProAc Studio One S loudspeakers in a room that’s 20’ by 17’ by 15’ and they fill the room -- I’m currently listening to Thiel 7.2s in a similarly sized room (with only a 10' ceiling) and they work well too, even if they would benefit from a larger listening space. The trick is to set them up so that your listening position is optimal (see my last three features on Loudspeaker Room Placement). I wouldn’t try to get a truly tiny speaker to fill your room with Mahlerian orchestral splendor, but I suspect the Signums will do just fine.

ATB...Wes


September 11, 2000

Subject: CD recordable

I've been reading your reviews since I bought my first copy of Stereophile in 1992. Thanks to you and other great reviewers from Stereophile, I was able to put together a musically satisfying system at reasonable prices.

Too bad that you and many of those whose reviews I enjoyed (Bob Harley, Jack English, Steven Stone, Thomas Norton, etc.) have decided not to write for Stereophile anymore.

I have some questions regarding CD-R technology. I remember Steven Stone wrote about the Pioneer PD-R99 years ago and found the device to be excellent. What I would like to know are:

  1. What is the different between player/recorder such as the Pioneer and the computer CD-R in terms of writing data?

  2. Since the Pioneer and similar devices use S/PDIF connection, could there be a jitter problem when you record?

  3. Can a computer CD-R work as good as or better than standaloneplayer/recorder such as the Pioneer?

I will appreciate if you can give me some opinions on the above subject.

Thank you.

Best regards,

Justinus Tjahjadi

Hi Justinius:

Since both outboard and computer-based CD recorders reproduce bit-for-bit copies, there shouldn’t be any difference between recordings. That said, forgive me if I make a mild diversion: Always be suspicious when an audio reviewer makes sweeping statements such as I see no reason why … or There should be no reason why…The language tells you the reviewer has not himself experienced any differences. The reviewer’s lack of imagination in no way actually compels the universe to behave in the manner he expects. Even if -- as is the case here -- what the reviewer says is completely logical, all he is really saying is I haven’t done the work but this is what I believe the answer will be.

For example, when I reviewed the Philips CDR 880, I clearly heard a very minor, but clearly audible, difference between the copies I made and the originals. I don’t know why -- in fact, it really ticks me off because I can conceive of no reason why this should be true if they are, in fact, bit-for-bit copies. So when I say there shouldn’t be any difference, all I am saying is that I haven’t compared for myself. My next computer will definitely include a CD burner, and I’ll make the comparison then and get back to you.

As to jitter, I asked Bob Stuart of Meridian about that, and he said that it’s not a problem since the recorder essentially re-clocks the data.

ATB...Wes


September 8, 2000

Subject: Playing mono LPs

I have a ton of these old records, and I'm in the market for a preamp to play them. I would also like to record some of them.

I have noticed that many modern preamps and integrateds do not have a mono switch. Isn't this important to cancel the extra noise that one would get playing a mono LP with a stereo cartridge? I have a VPI with a Grado.

I have considered the Plinius 8150 integrated, and now the new Musical Fidelity preamp is looking good as well. Neither of these has a mono switch, correct?

I was also considering the Audible Illusions Modulus 3a, which plays in mono, but I would like to avoid tubes. Also, I would like to stay under $2.5k for a preamp with a phono stage.

Also, how would I record these? Would I want a mono output out of both channels to the tape deck ?

Another consideration is a warp filter. Some of my records are warped, and doesn't this cause woofer pumping (my speakers are vented) and overload the amps. Am I getting too picky with this?

Michael

Dear Michael:

One of my pet peeves is the disappearance of mono switches from preamps, but I don’t hear any groundswell of protest about it, so I’m probably in the minority here. Yes, to get the best sound out of your vertically cut mono recordings, you should have an L-R switch which sums the two channels out of phase to one another, leaving the difference (vertical movement of the stylus).

KAB Electro-Acoustics (www.kabusa.com) makes a passive device called the Great Sound Escort Stereo Canceler ($75). It’s magnetically shielded and really well-built, employing Teflon and gold connectors, glass-epoxy circuit boards, 1% metal-film resistors, and 2% propylene caps. I have one which I use when I have marathon mono listening sessions -- I admit I’m too lazy to install it for every mono LP I play, but it’d sound better if I did. (It’s also handy for determining null channel balance when aligning phono cartridges.)

Install it between the TT and the phono section and just run that signal to your tape deck. As to whether you’re being too picky -- nah, you’re an audiophile. We prefer to think of ourselves as attentive to detail. You can blow woofers with the LF -- or burn a lot of watts trying to reproduce them -- but unless you’re planning on playing the records extremely loud while recording them, you’re probably safe.

ATB...Wes


September 6, 2000

Subject: To preamp or not to preamp...

OK, first off --- I'm a Linny. Now that that's out of the way, I'm looking at bi-amping vs. getting a preamp. I have a Majik, AMC CD6 CD player, Paradigm Compact Monitors, LK400 and Linn wire.

I've thought of getting another amp and gaining there, perhaps active Tukans, but it has been suggested to me that upgrading my preamp would probably have a bigger sonic impact (Kolektor or Wakonda).

I pretty much agree that quality starts at the source and works its way down the chain, but can a better preamp make that much more impact than having good power grab those little drivers really tightly? Or following the "chain" theory, would a new CD player make more sense?

Methinks I'm dizzy with the choices....

Regards,

Kevin

Hi Kevin:

The one rule of hi-fi that even my wife embraces is "everything makes a difference." Each of your options will change the sound of your system, but choosing the correct system hierarchy can make some investments pay higher sonic dividends.

One choice you haven’t mentioned is the addition of an upsampling DAC, such as the Bel Canto, MSB, or Perpetual Technologies units (check out my review of the Bel Canto DAC1 right here on October 1 -- and the follow-ups with other units that will follow).

If this option doesn’t appeal to you, I’d strongly consider converting to active Tukans. That would mean you wouldn’t have to think about replacing your speakers again until you’ve radically improved the rest of your system.

ATB...Wes


September 5, 2000

Subject: Long-term relationships

Do you think Wadia's demise will have a ripple effect?

I think it already has with me. I'm currently in the process of finalizing an equipment purchase. Assuming all things equal (sound and quality), it has come down to choosing a product from either a well-known, established company (company x) versus a small one (company y) with a great product at a great price. With the recent fallout of Wadia, I'm re-thinking my purchasing criteria. Not being a great risk-taker, I'm unlikely to do business with a smaller audiophile company anymore in the current environment. Since my pockets are not deep, maybe it's just paranoid or over-reaction.

Rick Fauska

Dear Rick:

No, I don’t think you’re being paranoid. Whenever you buy a piece of audio equipment, you need to ask yourself whether the company that produced it will be able to continue supporting you in the future. If the answer is "no," you still might want to buy the component, but it may change what it is worth to you. There’s a real benefit to dealing with a company you know is going to be around.

That’s one reason I’m so conservative in choosing products for review. I’d love to scoop the world and be the first guy to tell my readers about great new audio gear, but I also want to make sure that the companies I cover will be in business long after my review has convinced one of my readers to buy from them.

But Wadia seemed to be around for the long haul. I’ve heard all kinds of reasons for its troubles and I’m sure the real story is some combination of all of them, but if you had asked me last year whether Wadia would fold, I’d have said, "no." I’m pretty sure that Wadia will ultimately survive this current catastrophe, although I’m not so sure about UltraAnalog or Hales. I’d love to be wrong, however.

So am I saying you shouldn’t buy from small, potentially at-risk companies? No, not at all. Many of them will survive to become solid, dependable staples of the audio scene. But dealing with companies that have lasted and are known to have offered excellent customer service has a value that must be calculated into the buying equation. And note, I said companies "known to have offered excellent customer service"; there are also companies that survive who are known to be impossible to deal with and I can’t see any added-value in that equation.

ATB...Wes


September 1, 2000

Subject: The cheapest tweak

I was a big fan of yours when you wrote for Stereophile. I have the same problem you have. I can't afford what I want (but if I try sometimes I'll get what I need). Keep up the good prose. The cheapest tweak I know of costs nothing. Listen at 4:00 AM. The difference in the power grid is incredible. But you already knew that and, of course, it's not an option for most people. I'm a bartender.

Joe

Dear Joe:

Sez Wes (hat pushed back on head; coat slung casually over shoulder):

It's quarter to three, there's no one in the place
Except you and me
So set 'em up Joe,
I got a little story I think you should know

You’re absolutely right that hi-fis always sound better in the wee hours when all the big industrial sites are off the grid, but let’s not forget that street noises and other ambient sounds are quieter then too -- so it’s not just the AC that’s better.

Too bad it’s past my bedtime.

ATB...Wes


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